The story of Caterina Campodonico, known to most as the “Hazelnut Seller,” is one of the most touching and emotional tales in the history of Genoa. With a stern and authoritative face, Caterina’s life and legacy transcend the simplicity of her humble beginnings. She is not just a symbol of Genoese pride, but also a tribute to all the women who helped shape the city and the surrounding region of Liguria.
A Humble Beginning
Born in 1804 in the Portoria district of Genoa, Caterina came from a poor family. She made a living as a street vendor, but not in the way one might imagine. Unlike most vendors selling clothes or perfumes, Caterina sold canestrelli (a traditional Genovese biscuit) and “reste,” or hazelnut necklaces, which were popular among young couples as symbols of love and good fortune. These simple yet meaningful items would become the foundation of Caterina’s small fortune.
Hazelnut Necklaces and Canestrelli: A Simple Path to Success
The hazelnut necklaces, or reste, were not just decorative; they were considered lucky charms, often purchased by engaged couples as a guarantee of a prosperous and happy marriage. Along with the canestrelli, these humble goods allowed Caterina to save money and eventually build a modest fortune. Despite the simplicity of her products, they played a significant role in her rise, helping her secure a place in Genoa’s history.
A Life Full of Struggles
Life was not always kind to Caterina. She was not considered a great beauty, and her romantic relationships were far from ideal. The most difficult of these relationships was with her husband, Giovanni Carpi, a lazy alcoholic whom she eventually separated from. However, the separation came with a cost, as Caterina was forced to pay him 3,000 francs as part of the settlement.
Her family, particularly her sisters, was not supportive of her entrepreneurial spirit. They thought it improper for a woman to be so independent, especially one who was not married and had no children. Nevertheless, they were well aware of her wealth. She had become the “aunt with money,” and her relatives, despite their criticisms, knew where her fortune had come from.
Caterina’s Revenge and Immortality
Caterina’s relationship with her family soured further when, one day, she fell ill, and instead of offering her support, her relatives began planning to claim her inheritance. However, fate had other plans for her. Caterina survived, and as an act of defiance against her greedy relatives, she commissioned a statue of herself to be created by the sculptor Lorenzo Orengo. This statue would become her tombstone and serve as her eternal monument.
The statue, located at the Staglieno Cemetery in Genoa, captures Caterina’s stern, proud demeanor. The accompanying text, written by the poet Giambattista Vigo, reads:
«A sôn de vende reste e canestrelli
all’Aeguasanta, a-o Garbo, a San Ceprian
con vento e sô, con ægua zù a tinelli,
A-a maè vecciaia pe asseguaghe un pan.
Fra i pochi sodi, m’ammuggiava quelli
pe tramandame a-o tempo ciù lontan
mentre son viva, e son vea portolianna
Cattainin Campodonico (a paisanna)
In questa màe memoia, se ve piaxe
voiatre che passae pregheme paxe»
“While selling necklaces and biscuits at Acquasanta, Garbo, and San Cipriano, through wind and sun, and even pouring rain, to make sure I’d have bread in my old age, I saved a few coins along the way to leave a memory of me in time. While I’m alive and truly from Portoria, Caterina Campodonico (the peasant woman). If you like this memory of mine,please, as you pass by, pray for my peace.”
This inscription reflects her humble beginnings and the resilience that defined her life. The statue, which depicts Caterina with a serious yet proud expression, showcases her wearing a fringed shawl, a brocaded skirt, and her beloved hazelnut necklace and canestrelli.
The Legacy of Caterina Campodonico
Caterina passed away on July 7, 1882, but her legacy lives on through the statue that continues to draw visitors, many of whom seek a bit of good fortune from her monument. Some even claim that the numbers from her death date have led them to win big in the lottery, further cementing her place in Genoa’s cultural lore.
Today, the statue of Caterina Campodonico stands in the Staglieno Cemetery, one of the most beautiful and historic places in Genoa. The cemetery is known for its stunning sculptures and remarkable tombs, and Caterina’s is among the most visited. The marble statue, with its detailed depiction of the “Hazelnut Seller,” remains a testament to her resilience, pride, and contribution to Genoa’s history.
Discovering Genoa with the City Sightseeing Italy Hop-On Hop-Off Bus
While visiting the statue at Staglieno Cemetery, one can also explore the rest of the beautiful city of Genoa. To make the most of your visit, consider taking the City Sightseeing Italy Hop-On Hop-Off Bus. This convenient bus tour allows you to discover the highlights of Genoa, including its stunning palaces, museums, and the famous Genoa Aquarium. The bus will take you through the city’s charming streets, past historical landmarks, and give you the flexibility to stop at key locations such as the Royal Palace of Genoa and the Museum of Oriental Art.
The hop-on hop-off service makes it easy to explore at your own pace, and you can even take a moment to visit the Staglieno Cemetery to pay your respects to this remarkable woman who became an enduring symbol of Genoese pride and resilience.
Caterina Campodonico’s life story is one of humble beginnings, personal hardship, and eventual triumph. From selling hazelnut necklaces to becoming an immortal symbol in Genoa’s history, her legacy is one of resilience and independence. Her statue at Staglieno Cemetery remains an important part of the city’s cultural heritage, drawing visitors who are curious about her life and seeking a bit of good fortune. A visit to Genoa offers the opportunity to learn about Caterina’s life and explore the rich history of this beautiful city—best experienced with the City Sightseeing Italy Hop-On Hop-Off Bus.
